Wednesday, January 02, 2008

In praise of Captain Tony's

This is my favorite bar in Key West. That's saying a lot, because there are many, MANY bars on that island. Yet for me, nothing sums up the mood of Key West more than this old bar.

In the 1930s it was the original site of Sloppy Joe's, Hemingway's favorite haunt. But this bar had a rich history even before Papa arrived, and it all has an impact on the place's unique vibe.

First of all, there's a tree growing in the middle of the place. Really. The first building known to be on this site was a morgue. The tree was "the hanging tree," where those found guilty met their demise. Locals believed that removing the tree would disrupt the evil spirits that died there, so the bar (complete with cigar store and bordello) was built around the huge tree. Forget hurricanes. The hanging tree has survived at least since the 1880s. I guess Mother Nature doesn't want to disturb the evil spirits, either.

As if drinking in a dark, breezy establishment with a tree growing in the middle isn't strange enough, let me describe the decor. All the chairs and most of the barstools are torn, with stuffing showing. The walls are covered with business cards, many of them curled and yellowing with antiquity. There are bras hanging from the ceiling (some are autographed) and license plates from "the mainland" nailed to the rafters. No, I don't know why. 

I used to try to figure out what the hanging tree, the bras, the business cards and the license plates have in common. Then I gave up. 

It's just Key West.

2 comments:

  1. awwww looks like you are havin' fun!!!!

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  2. I know for a fact that there are at least five of my business cards on that there wall in Captain Tony's!!! Perhaps a bra or two....but we won't go there. Ahhhhh...the memories I have of that place. It captures all the magic of Key West, doesn't it?

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